![]() ![]() Mix up enough plaster to fill about 1/4 inch or more of the framed relief you have made. If needed fill any of the openings like the stems that could leak with some clay bits from the outside. This will hold the plaster and create a mold so make sure it is well imbedded. Whatever frame shape you decide can now be pushed into the clay. Use some tweezers or toothpicks if small parts get stuck. It is amazing how much texture appears! Use a low light source to see the details best. They do come out quite easily since the clay is oil based and the plants are not. Once you are happy with the design and have tested how it fills the frame carefully pull out the botanicals. Checkout all the kinds of weeds around… Spring & early summer usually has much budding going on. I love the Bleeding hearts as they do have some interesting form in the flowers but there are many many more as well. These bleeding hearts are quite dimensional! Be careful to keep the background as flat as possible for neatness. Flowers are nice but are be very very thin so the impression is very subtle. Once you rolled out the specimens they will be pushed into the clay. ![]() If you want to make a change you can start over since it’s just reusable clay that does not dry, just flatten well again. Hint: the back sides of the leaves usually have more texture so face them down. I use a piece of clear plastic so I can see the design through. If the material is quite stiff and thick you may need a stiff board to push down the botanicals. A sheet of parchment paper will help to make sure it does not stick. I like to arrange how they curve etc and hold in place before rolling over with the rolling pin. You can place them all or work one by one. Make sure the clay area is larger than the frame you want to use.Īrrange the botanicals as you like on your readied base of rolled modelling clay. If you like to use some strips to ensure consistent thickness at the edges that helps too! I plan to use some 1/2″ wood strips. You can use some heat like the sun to make it easier to flatten. This is important later so that you can lift the clay! The clay does not dry out and will be softer if it is warmer. They are also transparent for some ease of use later…įlatten an area of the clay with the rolling pin to a uniform smooth thickness on top of some paper or thin card board. I like that they are quite exact and can be cleaned. These are a collection of my ‘frames’ store-bought cake container, storage containers cut, and even a chocolate box with middle cut out. I also like them to be somewhat flexible to allow easy removal after casting. You can make any frame shape that you like… For simplicity I like to up-cycle some containers so that I have less ‘futzing’ with wood pieces. There really are no rules! Once you start you will want to try them all! It is even interesting to show the roots or the bulbs! Try to have some type of design plan… Hint: if you can’t use the plants right away stash them in a container in the fridge. I have a simple garden with a lot of variety but it’s by no means huge! This art form uses the form of the plants so it is better to choose ones that have some good texture or interest. Plaster of Paris (or for harder casts Hydrocal).Frame shape (may use pre-made containers).This would also make a great project for summer camp as it will help create an awareness of nature and easy materials to use. Doesn’t everyone have some plaster of Paris and plasticine at home? Simple children’s modelling clay works great for this project. I was so happy to realize that I didn’t need anything that special for this. As if I haven’t used botanicals enough in my art & design! How amazing it is that capturing nature’s form can be so beautiful! I am not going to tell you how… just kidding! Here we go Botanical Relief Casting in plaster ( and concrete as well) Simple Supplies: ![]()
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